Going Greek on the Upper West Side

Bacchanalia is defined as a drunken revelry, where promiscuity and dangerous inebriation reign. Sounds like a frat party, doesn’t it? Perhaps that’s not exactly what Michael Psilakis had in mind, but the roar of laughter and clinks of wine glasses that echo throughout appropriately suit his restaurant—Kefi, which is Greek for the spirit of bacchanalia.

After the monumental success of Kefi’s predecessor, Anthos, Psilakis and his partner Donatella Arpaia, decided to open a more affordable counterpart. Greasy gyros are nowhere to be found, nor is every item served with a side of feta cheese—stereotypes are thrown out of the window. Instead, slightly charred grilled octopus sits atop garbanzo beans mixed with tomatoes, garlic, and onions, and lightly breaded, crispy calamari comes with a side of refreshing Greek yogurt and olive oil.

The wine list, touting an impressively varied and solely Greek selection, is highly conducive to a debauched evening spent amidst brightly lit rooms decorated with an amalgam of pots and pans hanging from the ceilings. And if the older crowd of established businessmen and thirtysomethings proves anything, it’s that Psilakis has been able to maintain a high caliber despite the low prices.

Once voted best in the city by New York Magazine, the meatballs may not live up to expectations. Still, they are quite tender and deliciously blended with roasted garlic. Though pasta may not be directly associated with Greece, there is an intriguing menu section dedicated entirely to it.

From flat pasta with pulled braised rabbit to plump sheep’s milk dumplings accompanied by tomato, pine nuts, and spicy lamb sausage, the options might just stop one from ordering the seafood dishes for which Greece is known. That is, if it weren’t for the grilled branzino—Mediterranean sea bass—lightly paired with potatoes drizzled with olive oil and tomatoes. Braised lamb shank with orzo and pork medallions seasoned with spicy peppers will impress red meat lovers.

No matter how much the table orders, space must me left for dessert. The galaktoboureko—a thick, spongy sweet made with phyllo dough—is drenched in warm honey and thoroughly addicting. A magnificent walnut cake dotted with hefty chunks of walnut and an infusion of clove, cinnamon and sugar simply cannot be refused. Wash it all down with a bottle of ouzo—a chillingly sweet Greek liquor. It’s all in the spirit of bacchanalia, after all.