Entering the restaurant adjoining the French Culinary Institute, customers would never guess it is a school.
L’Ecole (which is French for “the school”) is the final stage of a student’s education at the FCI. The kitchen in the back of the house is probably four times larger than the typical restaurant kitchen—however, in the front, all appears perfectly normal with the only a slight hum of activity in the air.
At L’Ecole, there are five courses on the dinner menu and each course has four options (with the exception of the digestive salad). Students visiting the restaurant in a group have the opportunity to order the entire menu if each person orders a different item for each course.
The first course arrived: appetizers. The tuna tartare with pickled daikon was by far the highlight of the course. The braised pork belly and clams in puff pastry was another favorite, but it was much too heavy for an appetizer. The salmon was dry and the chicken consommé with chicken herb dumplings was simply unimpressive—reminiscent of the chicken broth served when people are sick.
On to the second course: fish. Unfortunately, students may find that fish is not the forte of the FCI. The lentils on the poached trout and the spring pea risotto from the sautéed salmon were the saviors of this course. However, the overly-greasy scallion and potato pancake became the element that condemned the striped bass.
The anticipated meat course arrived shortly after the unfinished fish was cleared from the table. Although none of the meat dishes were outstanding, the seared breast and braised thigh of duck and the seared rack of lamb are delicious. The hangar steak was too tough for an enjoyable experience. Still, it was better than the honey rum glazed pork belly, which drew instant reactions of disgust from everyone at the table: someone had over-salted the dish to the point that it almost tasted bitter. The steak and the pork belly remained virtually untouched for the rest of the course.
Next, the digestive salad was brought to the table. Composed of frisee, ricotta ice cream, balsamic reduction, and candied crushed pistachios, this dish—although seemingly simple—is perfectly refreshing and delicious. The components may not mix well, but students will enjoy the candied pistachios and ricotta ice cream.
Finally, diners reach the last course: dessert. The standout sweets are the strawberry tart and the sweet potato fritters. The strawberry tart coupled with an excellent basil emulsion and crème fraiche ice cream may have been early in terms of seasonality, but it was the ideal ending to the meal. And the sage ice cream that comes with the fritters is unforgettable. The panna cotta and the parfait were unimpressive, best abandoned in favor of other treats. The Nutella banana dessert pizza appeared to be a failed attempt at a good idea. With an undercooked crust and extremely chewy texture, it was sadly repulsive.
Although many dishes are delightful, it must not be forgotten that L’Ecole is part of a school, and therefore, the chefs in the back of the house are not yet professionals. There will be mistakes. Fortunately, the high points of the meal easily make up for the blunders that show just how much these culinary students have left to learn.
The French Culinary Institute is located at 462 Broadway (between Broome and Crosby streets). The five-course prix-fixe menu costs $42.
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