Year in review: New eateries satisfy M’side students

Money flowed into Morningside Heights this year with the emergence of new dining options designed to appeal to the college demographic. A handful of restaurant openings along Broadway overshadowed the loss of Columbia favorites as business owners capitalized on evolving neighborhood tastes.

In December, Crystal Gourmet (Broadway between 110th and 111th streets) entered the ongoing deli warfare among HamDel, CrackDel, and the various B-list spots peppering odd street corners around campus. Unlike the slightly unsavory—and perhaps largely imaginary—atmosphere these shady food shops offer boozy frat boys and freshmen playing pretend, Crystal Gourmet provides a clean, well-lit space that shuts down before dark. Serving up homey sandwiches stuffed with high-quality meats, Crystal Gourmet nevertheless looks empty on early summer evenings months after opening—an inauspicious sign.

Just a block up Broadway, Tea Magic (Broadway between 111th and 112th streets) extended the East Dumpling House hold on Columbians. Already seducing students with frozen dumplings and bubble tea at Café East in Lerner, this company hoped to draw in even more customers off the street. A wider variety of tea flavors, including a lightly perfumed rose offering and a selection of Taiwanese pastries, has helped this shop succeed. Blindingly bright lights probably don’t hurt sun-deprived students, either.

When chains take over a beloved neighborhood establishment, locals typically protest vehemently. But with the Empanada Joe’s space dormant for so long, Maoz (Broadway between 110th and 111th streets) came as a relief for developers and vegetarians alike. Falafel reigns supreme at Maoz, where an unlimited salad bar encourages customers to eat even vegetables to excess. Whether Maoz can survive the slow summer months, though, remains to be seen.

Beyond the ever-accessible chain restaurants, Morningside Heights and Harlem seem to be playing host to an upscale dining revolution. Vareli (Broadway between 111th and 112th streets) opened next to The Heights in March, offering students an eclectic Mediterranean menu and expensive drinks. Since throwing its chic interior open to the public, though, Vareli has focused on promoting its bar rather than its menu.

Across Morningside Park, Ryan Skeen brought his contemporary American cuisine to Columbia turf in April with 5 & Diamond (Frederick Douglass Boulevard between 112 and 113th streets), challenging downtown stereotypes of Morningside’s unsophisticated college cuisine. Skeen strikes a controversial pose in the Manhattan food world, but delivering such solid renditions of Italian and bistro dishes more than lives up to a reputation for strong technical skill. While prices might deter students, trying this newcomer at least once seems worth the cost.

Another classic Columbia watering hole, La Negrita, gave way to 999 (Columbus Avenue at 109th Street), a British pub-themed bar complete with fireplace and shepherd’s pie. Unfortunately, the loss of La Negrita left many underclassmen searching for an equally divey hangout, a vibe 999 never quite embraced.

This summer, restaurateur Nick Tsoulos plans to open Mel’s Burger Bar in Tomo’s old spot on Broadway between 110th and 111th streets. Trading in sushi for burgers, Mel’s will feature comfort food and spiked milkshakes, a guaranteed winner for stressed-out students. Few will likely miss Tomo’s uninspired Japanese cuisine when faced with a griddled burger on white bread, a creation inspired by notorious New Haven institution Louis’ Lunch.

With more grand openings than closings, the past two semesters have given students more to look forward to in neighborhood dining than in recent memory. Hopefully, these exciting new options will remain open for semesters to come.