In honor of 50 years of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, or CFDA for short, the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology has developed an exhibition of garments that represents the growth and expansion of American fashion from as early as 1963.
New York City serves as the main inspiration for the visual and structural organization of the exhibition, which inhabits a cube-shaped room. The geometric spacing of garments and symmetrical framework are both reminiscent of Manhattan’s grid-like makeup and reflect curator Patricia Mears’ vision of “presenting [the garments] as democratically as possible.”
Designers are faced with the same issues every day: how to find good venues for their clothes and how to expand their brands. With these questions in mind, Mears sought to methodically organize the exhibition and grouped garments thematically. “Cheeky” menswear, elegant evening wear, and exoticism are groupings viewers might encounter with designs by Thom Browne, Bill Blass, Michael Kors, and Ralph Lauren.
A wool knit mini dress designed by Rudi Gernreich in 1963 adds a nice touch to a collection of simple dresses, admired by exhibition-goers for their vibrant and sophisticated surface designs. The composition of black parachute cloth, a feather jacket, a skirt, and a turban brings to life Norma Kamali’s vision of New York and current avant-garde trends, all of which represent the monochromatic black styles one might see while walking on the street.
The exhibition also highlights designer Oscar de la Renta, whose silk taffeta gown with a black guipure bodice, designed for this spring, turns heads with a stark contrast between the garment’s black bodice and bright yellow silk gown. Some other highlights of the exhibit include a simple black, mermaid-like gown designed by Vera Wang, an extravagant red gown with a long train designed by Zac Posen, and an outfit designed for FedEx workers by former CFDA president Stan Herman.
At a press preview held on February 9, CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg remarked on the success of American fashion designers, and the continuing growth and development of ideas that bring everyday, editorial, and avant-garde fashions to the next level. “Design and pragmatism” are the crux of good designs, Furstenberg said, further commenting on her vision for the CDFA’s expansion and contributions to fashion.
Furstenberg also remarked, with much pride, that “American fashion is about success and the American dream. This is what the sea of American talent is about.” In Furstenberg’s eyes, we all come from different places and our unification makes us strong.
Nicely represented throughout the exhibit, American fashion has served as a means of communication, unification, and progress not only for America, but for countries around the globe seeking inspiration in the competition that is fashion. And although a fierce competition, the designs displayed at this exhibit powerfully reinforce the impact American designers have had on both domestic and international fashion scene.
The Museum at FIT will continue displaying these approximately 100 garments and accessories through April 17.


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